Our Animals

Foster Manual for Dogs & Puppies

Table of Contents

Supplies Needed

The following is a checklist of items that you will need to foster a dog or puppy.

Our rescue will provide the necessary supplies, food, and medical care for your foster animal. Please take care of and keep track of the supplies given to you as we do reuse them for the next foster animal. Thank you!​

Checklist

• Food and water bowls
• Leash/collar/tags
• High-quality dog or puppy food (it’s a good idea to have both dry and canned food on hand in case you have a picky eater)
• Chew toys
• Crate or kennel (for keeping dogs safe and out of trouble while you’re away and to help with house-training)
• Dog bed, blankets, or towels to provide your foster dog with a comfortable place to sleep​

Behavioral Issues

It is common for a dog to experience some behavioral problems and need a period of adjustment when placed into a new environment. Foster homes are in a unique position to help increase the “adoptability” of their foster dogs by providing some basic training. The following is a list of common behavioral problems as well as suggestions for behavior modification.

Problem #1 Lack of House-Training

Chances are your foster dog will need at least a refresher course in house-training. Many rescued dogs have spent most of their lives outside and never learned the rules of living indoors. Other dogs may have once been house-trained, but may still have an accident or two when transitioning into a new home.

The most important element of effective house-training is extensive supervision, to minimize accidents. There will, of course, be times when you are unable to watch the dog constantly. During these times, you can confine the dog to a crate. The crate should be just large enough for the dog to be able to comfortably stand up, turn around, and lie down. Because a dog will try not to soil the area where he sleeps, he will usually not urinate or defecate in a crate. Our rescue tries to have all of our dogs crate trained.

When the dog is allowed out of the crate, he should be taken outside- always to the same place immediately. If the dog eliminates outside, give him lots of praise and a treat RIGHT WHEN HE ELIMINATES. Do not wait to give your dog a treat inside as he will associate the treat with coming inside, not the act of elimination. If the dog does not eliminate, it is important that you put the dog back in the crate for 15 minutes and then try going outside again or supervise the dog closely once you re-enter your home. If you catch the dog having an accident in the house, take the dog straight outside and give him a chance to finish eliminating outside. If the dog does eliminate, give him lots of praise and a treat. It can also be helpful to tether the dog to you with a leash in the house to keep an eye on him

When house-training a dog, please use common sense. Give the dog a chance to eliminate outside following meals and naps. Pay attention to the dog’s behavioral signals. If you observe the dog circling, sniffing the floor, general restlessness, or moving toward the door, take the dog outside.

House-training Don’ts:

Dogs should never be punished for having an accident.

1. Do not rub the dog’s nose in it! This method of training has been proven ineffective by trainers and behaviorists. The only message a dog gets from this type of “training” is that you are angry. The dog will likely not learn to eliminate outside and may instead learn to fear you. Studies have shown that if you can catch a dog just as he is beginning to initiate an unwanted act, then that immediate punishment may prevent the dog from performing that behavior in the future. However, if you punish a dog after he has already performed the unwanted behavior, or even while he is already committed much of his misbehavior and is in the middle of the act, it simply won’t work. Instead the dog learns to be afraid of the entire situation, but will still do the unwanted behavior.
2. Do not correct the dog after the fact! Again, this method of training has been proven ineffective. Punishing a dog for something she did much earlier will not yield the results you are looking for. Yes, the dog will behave submissively and perhaps look guilty, but this is because the dog knows you are angry, not because she knows that, earlier, she did something wrong. Studies have shown that if you can catch a dog just as he is beginning to initiate an unwanted act, then that immediate punishment (never physical) may prevent the dog from performing that behavior in the future. However, if you punish a dog after he has already performed the unwanted behavior, or even while he is already committed much of his misbehavior and is in the middle of the act, it simply won’t work. Instead the dog learns to be afraid of the entire situation, but will still do the unwanted behavior.

House-training is not a process that happens overnight. Be patient. Any progress you can make with your foster dog on house-training will make your life easier and help improve the dog’s chances for successful placement.

​Additional Resources

• http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/housetraining_puppies.html
• http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/crate_training.html
  

Problem # 2 Chewing

Destructive chewing is a phase that all puppies go through. It usually starts around three months and can last until the dog is one year old. During this time, the dog’s adult teeth are coming in and chewing helps relieve the pain. Adult dogs may also have problems with chewing, but for different reasons. Adult dogs usually chew on inappropriate things because they are anxious or bored, or because they have never been taught what is appropriate to chew on.

The best solution for destructive chewing is providing your foster dog with something that is acceptable to chew on. Have plenty of chew toys available at all times. If you catch the dog chewing on something inappropriate, tell the dog “NO” in a firm (but not angry) voice, and replace the item with something more appropriate.

If the destructive chewing occurs when you are away, consider confining the dog to a crate. A crate will help keep both the dog and your home safe. It is also important to make sure that your foster dog is getting plenty of exercise. A tired dog will sleep, not chew!

Problem # 3 Separation Anxiety

It is pretty common for foster dogs to experience some separation anxiety when left alone. The severity of the anxiety can range from pacing and whining to much more destructive behavior. A dog may experience separation anxiety simply because he has a very dependent personality, or because she is reacting to a history of abuse or abandonment. Whatever the reason, separation anxiety can be difficult to deal with because you are not around when it happens.

The most common sign that a dog may be suffering from separation anxiety is destructive behavior when left alone. A dog may scratch frantically at the door or make other attempts to get out of the house, or the dog may chew on things or engage in other destructive behaviors.

If you do have the time to work with your foster dog, there are several things you can try to help alleviate separation anxiety. Start out by leaving the dog in your home for very short intervals. Tell the dog to wait and then walk outside for a few minutes before returning. When you return to the house, praise the dog for waiting. Begin to gradually leave the dog for longer and longer periods of time. It is important that, when you leave, you remain calm and not make a big deal out of leaving. It is also important that you not be too excited when you return. You want to praise the dog, but calmly. You don’t want your return to be such an exciting event that the dog anxiously anticipates the moment of your return. Perhaps the most effective treatment for separation anxiety is time. Be patient. As your foster dog spends more time with you, he will begin to feel more secure in knowing that when you leave, you always come back.

Some destructive behavior that appears to be related to separation anxiety may, in fact, be the product of boredom. Try providing chew toys or other play items that will entertain your foster dog while you are away. There are several products on the market that work quite well. One of the more popular toys keeps dogs engaged by making them work for food or treats. Once the toy is filled with some kind of small food item, the dog must work by rolling and tipping the toy until a treat falls out. Most of these products allow you to adjust the level of difficulty, and can keep a dog entertained for significant periods of time.

Don’t forget to make sure that your foster dog gets plenty of exercise. A tired dog is much less likely to engage in behaviors associated with anxiety or boredom.

​Additional Resources

Basic Puppy Care and Socialization

• Puppy Care
• Puppy Socialization

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